But here we have God's handiwork and
His own evidences."
At the bottom of the steep descent from the city gate we came to the
tomb of the Virgin; and by special agreement made with Joseph we
left our horses here for a few moments, in order that we might
descend into the subterranean chapel under the tomb, in which mass
was at this moment being said. There is something awful in that
chapel, when, as at the present moment, it is crowded with Eastern
worshippers from the very altar up to the top of the dark steps by
which the descent is made. It must be remembered that Eastern
worshippers are not like the churchgoers of London, or even of Rome
or Cologne. They are wild men of various nations and races,--
Maronites from Lebanon Roumelians, Candiotes, Copts from Upper
Egypt, Russians from the Crimea, Armenians and Abyssinians. They
savour strongly of Oriental life and of Oriental dirt. They are
clad in skins or hairy cloaks with huge hoods. Their heads are
shaved, and their faces covered with short, grisly, fierce beards.
They are silent mostly, looking out of their eyes ferociously, as
though murder were in their thoughts, and rapine.
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