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Bates, Henry Walter, 1825-1892

"The Naturalist on the River Amazons"

The flood-tide as we travelled northward became
gradually of less assistance to us, as it caused only a feeble
current upwards. The pressure of the waters from the Amazons here
makes itself felt; as this is not the case lower down, I suppose
the currents are diverted through some of the numerous channels
which we passed on our right, and which traverse, in their course
towards the sea, the northwestern part of Marajo. In the evening
of the 29th we arrived at a point where another channel joins the
Jaburu from the northeast. Up this the tide was flowing; we
turned westward, and thus met the flood coming from the Amazons.
This point is the object of a strange superstitious observance on
the part of the canoemen. It is said to be haunted by a Paje, or
Indian wizard, whom it is necessary to propitiate by depositing
some article on the spot, if the voyager wishes to secure a safe
return from the "sertao," as the interior of the country is
called. The trees were all hung with rags, shirts, straw hats,
bunches of fruit, and so forth.


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